Camping on the Pembrokeshire Coast

Pembrokeshire is the only national park in Britain designated for its coastline, and the Pembrokeshire Coast Path runs the entire length of it — 186 miles from Amroth to St Dogmaels, with roughly 35,000 feet of ascent, which is more than Everest from sea level.

The reward for that is a shoreline of volcanic headlands, sheltered coves and offshore islands carrying some of the largest seabird colonies in the world.

Beaches and coves

Barafundle Bay is regularly named among the best beaches in Britain and is reachable only on foot from Stackpole Quay, which is what keeps it good. Whitesands near St Davids is the surf beach; Newgale is two miles of shingle and sand and the most reliable wind for kitesurfing.

Broad Haven South, with Church Rock offshore, is the one photograph everyone comes back with.

Islands and wildlife

Skomer holds around three-quarters of a million Manx shearwaters — the largest colony anywhere — and puffins that walk past your boots between April and July. Day boats run from Martin’s Haven and sell out; book ahead.

Ramsey and Grassholm add grey seals and a gannet colony of some 39,000 pairs. Seal pups appear on the beaches from late August through October.

Coasteering

The sport was invented on this coast, and the geology — deep water directly below solid rock — is why. Go with a licensed operator: the hazards are swell, tide state and unseen rock, none of which are obvious from the top.